“Send a Salami to your boy in the Army,” says an old sign in a window at Katz’ Deli, referring to the hard beef salamis prevalent in Jewish delis during World War II. The favored salami in New York, though, is the Genoa–style salami, a soft, garlicky sausage made with a combination of pork and beef with other ingredients that can range from peppercorns to brandy. Traditionally, Genoa salamis are wrapped in four–foot–long casings and dried over the course of ten weeks; in some New York delis, you can still see them hung from the ceiling as they were a century ago. Some of the tastiest salami in the city comes from the Pastosa Ravioli company, originally of Staten Island, now with stores in every borough.